How many of you started out in the tuxedo business cleaning shoes? Of the many choices specialists make, how important are shoes? What is the profit percentage on shoe rental? A pair of shoes can be paid for at 100 to 150% on the first rental. What advice do manufacturers give specialists when it comes to new products and the care of one of our most important staples in the industry? We asked the three main shoe sources for our industry the same group of questions to get a feel for their philosophies, theories, and a little advice. Here is what they had to say:

Ken Marion, Barclay Shoes, Vestal NY
Larry Opinsky, Gateway Shoes, Ballwin MO
Kevin Moran, Colonial Shoe Company, Atlanta GA

Background information on your company:
Salesforce, Key People

KM Barclay: We use the After Six sales force: Stu Feinberg in the Northeast, Ed Murphy in the Southeast, Tim Moore in the Midwest, Bobby Lucarelli in the West and Pedro Bonilla in Pureto Rico. We also have an agent in Europe, Finishing Tuxes, based in the UK.

LO: Larry Opinsky

KM Colonial: Office-Kevin Moran (pres.), Scott Lasky & Renee' Stewart
Reps-Bucky McQueen, Bill Davis, Brian Luepp, Mike Lubin, Tom Black & Lisa Perez
(same sales force as FWI & Mel Howard Elite)

Rental and or Retail?

KM Barclay: Rental only, both high fashion and basics, we maintain about 30 styles in stock

LO: Both

KM Colonial: CSC does an in-stock line of Retail all leather footwear as well as Rental quality tuxedo shoes.

Tell us about your manufacturing facility.

KM Barclay: Our factories are in the Orient. They employ experienced technicians and use the newest state-of-the-art shoemaking machinery.

LO: 50,000 square feet, 50 employees in our domestic factory in Missouri. International network of shoe factories around the world that we work with in direct sourcing, component sourcing, and findings sourcing.

KM Colonial: Colonial's goods are manufactured overseas (China), we maintain an office in Taiwan to supervise our production. Rental goods use U.S. made upper materials.

Stock on hand or ordering time frame?

KM Barclay: We try our best to keep acceptable levels of inventory on hand on our 30 line items all year round. Make up or special orders take about 120 to 135 days to customer’s door delivery.

LO: Always in stock! That is what owning your own factory means.

KM Colonial: CSC is now receiving containers to cover Spring '07, with a majority of styles for At-Once delivery. New fashion goods are February.

Be honest and tell us about one you wish you had not done.

KM Barclay: “Rainbow”

LO: Early on, when we were testing the shoes in the industry. A customer insisted our sizing was wrong, so we changed it. BIG MISTAKE!! We knew better as we base all of our sizing on internationally accepted standards. Well the inventories got mixed up in their warehouse and the whole thing was a mess. We promptly switched the sizing back and never have considered it again.

KM Colonial: An allover patent, Euro slip-on with a big buckle in the mid 90's. Not a really good idea.

Formal wear is what % of your business?

KM Barclay: 100% of our division right now, we are just getting into the career apparel segment. Our owners, Rocky Brands, are into many segments of the footwear market.
LO: 60%

KM Colonial: Men's and women's formal footwear is 90% of CSC's business. It's the industry we know best and excel at.

So many options out there for care of rental shoes what are your recommendations for your products?

KM Barclay: There are special instructions for maintenance care and cleaning for the calf-like “Rik” and “Tyler” but on our patent finish shoes we recommend that they first be cleaned with just a damp cloth to remove surface dirt. Sometimes that’s all they need. If there are scuffs present, use a very small amount of Barclay Shoe Cleaner to remove them then use a silicone spray for shining (Turtle Wax F21 Super Protectant, Pledge, Armour All)

LO: There are not a lot of good options. We have always recommended mild soap and water to remove all the organic matter (mud, food, etc.). That should leave a clean shoe except for some scuffs. Use a remover product (like Gateway Scuff and Mark Remover) ONLY on the scuffs themselves as the formula is strong enough to remove the finish. Then wipe on a very light layer of protector (Gateway Liquid Glass) to enhance the shine and protect the shoe. Finally, spray the inside with a deodorant, we vend ShoeFresh that is a non-aerosol pump bottle that has a pleasant musk scent.

KM Colonial: The best I am aware of is a mixture of 50% Goof Off and 50% water. It takes out black marks and does not harm the patent finish.

What mistakes do you see retailers making when it comes to shoe purchases and care?

KM Barclay: Don’t use alcohol, ammonia or acetone based cleaning agents! (NO Windex, Mr. Clean, 409, or nail polish remover). I’ve seen instances where maintaining inventories on older styles too long can turn customers off to renting footwear.

LO: The optimum is 3 or 4 styles with 3 price points. Beyond that and the inventory carrying/replacement costs get so high that the value of the shoes is decreased. Shoes are only the most profitable part of the business if you turn them enough. If you have too many styles, the turns go down and the cost of maintaining them goes up.

KM Colonial: Shoes in this industry give the best return on investment of any category; so, I think it's a mistake to buy too few. All you do is wear them out faster if you don't have back-up. The worst thing to do in care is give the new part-timer a bottle of pickerin for black marks. Good-bye finish = good bye profit!

In a perfect world what would the average number of turns be on some of your different products?

KM Barclay: With proper care of the inventory, the shoe segment of the business should be the most profitable for all Formalwear Specialists. Boys sizes will experience less turns.

LO: It depends entirely on how the customer stores, handles, and cleans the shoes. We have customers that treat their shoes like they were their own children and have been renting nice looking shoes for YEARS, over 70 turns. Under normal care, shoes should last 30-40 turns.

KM Colonial: In an adult size, on average 30. Boys sizes I wouldn't try to guess--kids can destroy anything.

Any tips on styles that work better for boys?

KM Barclay: We try to design our boys sizes with an outsole extension that will help to minimize toe scuffing. Some of our accounts have decided to forgo the extra rental charge on fashion styles and just use the basic Jazz Oxford for boys sizes.

LO: Shy of making a cement shoe, no. Boys are going to tear them up no matter what. Styles will not change that.

KM Colonial: Not really, sorry.

What makes you the best choice for rental shoes?

KM Barclay: Quality, Fit, Service. Styling to address consumer tastes of all ages.

LO: Our exclusive direct attached construction, material quality, and uniform American sizing. To get the most turns, and the most profit, it is important that your shoes are durable enough to withstand the rigors of the rental customer. Gateway uses only the highest quality materials along with our “melted” on sole system to make sure the shoe will perform as long as the customer deems fit. Our fit system, uniform for ALL styles of shoes, also ensures that no matter what the style, the size 10 fits the same throughout. This is especially important for multi-store/warehouse specialists who rely on consistency in sizing to share their inventory between units.

KM Colonial: Our quality and attention to detail. CSC has built in comfort features and we style our shoes with earmarks of high end footwear. CSC uses a certain stitches per inch, quarter detailing, etc. that makes our shoes stand out.

Retail?

KM Barclay: We do not market genuine patent leather retail oriented formal footwear. However, I am sure that virtually all of our accounts retail our shoes to consumers who would rather purchase than rent. I would venture to guess these sales occur with profitable margins for our accounts.

LO: Retail is such a small portion of the formal footwear market that we offer. Our traditional cap-toe leather shoe is built like a Cadillac for the specialists that know how to market to that specific customer. Many of our specialists retail our full rental line. We have been told that the quality of our shoes, especially our Athletic style insoles, makes them very attractive for retail sales.

What product do you sell that has the most potential to make retailers money?

KM Barclay: Our higher fashion numbers rent for quite a premium over basics. Unique products like the “7” line of European sleek toe styles. For example, the “sXL” air cord.

LO: Most likely the first two price point shoes. Jazz oxford, Formal style, cap toes, and Wing tips. Traditional styles that will turn, turn, turn, without having to buy new ones every year.

KM Colonial: CSC's GENOA style reaches the most consumers for basic styling and comfort. bought on Spring promotion this show offers great mark-up opportunities.

Other products or services your company offers we should know about?

KM Barclay: We now market and stock the After Six line of Career Apparel footwear in both men’s and women’s sizes with restaurant grade slip-resistant outsoles. These are available in both patent and calf-like finish.

LO: Gateway Shoe Care products are the most widely used in the industry (Scuff and Mark Remover, Liquid Glass, and ShoeFresh), laces, plastic drawstring shoe bags, shoe boxes. We also do a lot of contract manufacturing and international shoe sourcing. Smaller production runs on specialty colors and materials. And just lately, we have started manufacturing dye sublimation handbags with high-detail color photos on them (one of a kind photo gift items).

KM Colonial: CSC sells replacement laces and shoe displays. All accounts have access to our images which we send out on disc. We also do Same Day shipping at no extra cost and up to 20 minutes before UPS picks up.

What is on the horizon for your company?

KM Barclay: A new website and an internet based advertising campaign.

LO: With the industry changing so fast, the horizon keep moving as well. I think we will continue to grow our formalwear business with some new styles for next year. We are very focused on the helping the specialists get more RETAIL business as this can be as profitable as the rental. Look for some dynamic new footwear items to help them out.

KM Colonial: Colonial anticipates a growing market share in 2007 and beyond. We are also researching additional product lines to enhance our core business.

What can the IFA do to help you as a manufacturer?

KM Barclay: It’s easier said than done, but I think the IFA should use their time and resources doing more public relations for the formalwear industry. They would be the most help being an advocate group for promoting formal attire to influential celebrities in the sports and entertainment industries.

LO: Get more customers to the show. Embrace the small wholesale customers: bridal, men’s stores, career apparel, etc;

KM Colonial: The IFA is historically the kickoff to every new season. It is the first opportunity CSC uses to introduce early buy pricing to Specialists.

Do you offer IFA preferred pricing?

KM Barclay: We offer the same pricing structure to all of our accounts.

LO: Yes.

Do you attend the IFA EXPO or regional shows?

KM Barclay: Barclay will attend all formalwear-related shows in 2007.

LO: Always the EXPO, and most of the regional shows. There should be more regional shows.

KM Colonial: CSC attends IFA, SIFA and all regional shows. We want to be as accessible as possible to Specialists.

How do people contact you?

KM Barclay:   Toll Free: 800-444-4413
                       Fax: 607-729-5452
                       Email: yvonne.pisani@rockybrands.com

LO: Phone 800-539-6063
      Fax, 636-527-379
      Email: info@gatewayshoes.com
Website: WWW.GATEWAYSHOES.COM

KM Colonial: 1-800-678-7463 is our direct line.

Final thoughts on what you would like your customers to know and remember about you when choosing where to purchase shoes?

KM Barclay: Barclay has been in the formalwear rental footwear business since it’s inception over 30 years ago. We are a division of EJ Footwear and owned by Rocky Brands, Inc. a footwear manufacturer, steeped in tradition, with a long and stable history of quality. We are a manufacturer; we employ a professional staff of Designers, Technicians, Logistics and Transportation specialists, with many years of experience. Our Designers travel the world in search of new style ideas which can translate to formalwear, keeping us and our accounts in step with changing fashion directions. We maintain an office near our manufacturing facilities with approximately 30 highly trained inspectors who are in the factories supervising as our production goes through. Our Transportation Dept. oversees our goods every step of the way to make sure our inventory arrives on time and in good order. Barclay’s Order Department in the sales office in Vestal, NY is managed by Yvonne Pisani, who is considered to be one of the best customer service agents in the industry. Between the two of us we have 68 years experience in the formalwear industry (Yvonne 38 years, Ken 30 years). We strive to be the industry’s most customer friendly source, and offer an array of payment terms including the three major credit cards. Barclay markets the highest quality, best fitting formal footwear available, offering in stock inventory and excellent service. What sets us apart is that we are not an apparel company marketing accessories, we are a footwear company manufacturing formal shoes.

LO: Made in the USA factory direct products. We are the largest tuxedo shoe factory in the world and still offer all customers, big and small, direct access to our inventory. The closer you can get to an actual factory, the better business you can do! Call us to talk about our in-stock program where we virtually NEVER are out of shoes! That is the benefit of working directly with a factory. Remember that there is more money spent in the back room on footwear than on the actual purchase cost. A poor quality shoe will cost more in the long run and reduce the ever-so-valuable turns. Our shoes are built with American pride, skill, and craftsmanship and guaranteed by our standards of excellence only a factory can offer.

KM Colonial: Colonial: Colonial Shoe is the oldest shoe supplier to the formalwear industry, over 34 years. we stand behind our products and formal footwear is our business. it's not a "division of" or sideline business in any way. that makes it not only our #1 priority; but, our only priority!

EDITOR’S NOTE:
Flow Formal Alliance announced it would not have Spring ‘07 delivery on shoes. After recent negotiations with a new supplier, the company will be out in July with a full line of shoes for Spring ‘08 delivery.

The Weintraub and Westreich families’ merger of Formal 1 and Lord West to form Flow Formal brought two strong family companies together to make an even stronger alliance. Flow’s new line will feature jackets with Chaps and Calvin Klein labels along with a new Ralph Lauren vest line. The salesmen will be out in full force with all the details.

What do you think of when you think of Anchorage Alaska? Does this location bring to mind elegant black tie events and brides looking for the latest styles and colors in formalwear? It should! Dooley’s Tuxedo and Costume in Anchorage is busy year-round with exactly that.
Dooley’s Tuxedo and Costume has been in business for over 40 years. The original owner Doris Dooley started the business in Fairbanks Alaska. A flood in 1967 on the Tanana River devastated the business. She chose at that time to pick up the pieces and relocate to Anchorage. The Heim family purchased the business from the Dooley’s in the 1980’s and the present owners are a mother and daughter team: Rose and Starla Heim. The 11,000-square foot building houses both the tuxedo business and a very busy costume division. Dooley’s is a self sufficient in-stock store servicing all 571,951 square miles of Alaska. Shipping is just part of the daily considerations of running the business. Orders are shipped 3 days before the event and most certainly will be handled by air. They have even in the past delivered to a rural village by dogsled. Do you offer that kind of customer service?

The population of Alaska is 663,000 and 2/5 of those people live in Anchorage. Brides walking through the doors are looking at the same magazines and television as the ones that walk through your doors. The expectations are the same; the colors they look for are the same. Dooley’s offers their customers over 20 complete lines to choose from. The Heim family works hard to make customer service their greatest asset and maintain an expert staff. Being so far reached from the continental US demands the business be self sufficient and carry inventory to cover their customers needs. The black tie social events are much the same, opera and theatre events, charity balls, and a bachelor auction for the American Diabetes Association. I asked Ms. Heim to dispel a common belief she feels we have down here about her state. “That we are a bit backwoodsy and not as fashion-conscious as the lower 48, NOT SO!! We are just as normal as you,” she exclaims.

Prom is much the same as the rest of us deal with. I can not imagine the kids walking into a store that also has a vast costume division and trying to get them to make a decision. Ms Heim says “They come in always wanting something different, yet usually end up staying pretty basic.” Dooley’s offers prom discounts and enjoy working with the kids just like the rest of us.

The costume business makes up 35% of the store’s income and enables them to do period weddings besides the obvious Halloween rush. The area has many murder mysteries, masked balls and themed dances. They display vast amounts of wigs, boas, makeup, masks, hats, and many other costume related items. They have a two-week celebration called Fur Rendezvous with a gold rush theme that keeps the costume division hopping. One of the common requests they have is people wanting to rent a moose costume to pick friends up at the airport! How many of us get that request?

“There is never a dull moment or down season, there is always some kind of formal affair or costume event gong on in our town,” states Starla Heim. Destination weddings for couples traveling north to be married are very popular. They are mostly at the ski resort Mt. Alyeska or Mt. McKinley. These of course vary in styles according to the weather and time of year. Anchorage is living with 18 hours of darkness right now--further north it is dark 24 HOURS! The opposite is true next summer and they feel that makes the winter’s long hours worth it. The average daytime temperature in Anchorage now is between 5-30 degrees, which in fact is warmer than many places in the Continental US. Of course they do have an average snowfall of 70 inches! The cost of living can be higher on some things, yet pretty much the same on others. A gallon of gas is $2.36 right now.

Make sure if you travel to Alaska this summer you take the time to stop and visit these friendly people. Visit their website at www.dooleysak.com. The response to my questions was immediate and very candid. We chose Alaska as our first in a continuing series of features on the operations of stores just like yours, and we hope you enjoy learning about how someone else chooses to do the same business as your own. We would love comments, questions, requests and offers for future stories. Step outside your world and look in! What do others see?

Our contact information:
Diane phone at work 309-342-5914
Cell 309-721-4778
Email atuxforu2@hotmail.com

Becky phone at work 309-797-9889
Cell 309-236-7940
Email rebeccamc522@aol.com

Diane was recruited into the tuxedo world by a manager of one of the Ducky’s stores in 1988. She has worked every aspect of the store from production of an in-stock store to manager and then partner. This past December, she became the sole owner of Ducky’s Formalwear Galesburg. She resides in the Quad Cities area with her 13-year old niece Amanda, who lives with her full-time along with Emma their golden retriever and Tuxer the cat. As the detail person of this duo, she will be doing many of the interviews and talking to you (once the new store is redone to her liking).

I, Becky, am the one with the love of writing. I’ve always written poems and stories and continually plan an unrecorded novel in my head. I have 3 grown sons a black lab named Rocky, and live in the country about 4 miles from the Mississippi river. I was recruited by Diane to work as prom help. That was the year my youngest son, who is now 21, started school all day. My first job was to tear down tuxedos in the back room on return days. I learned all the coat styles ironically by their lining colors. As my son’s grew older, so did my time commitment to the store. I find I have a passion for talking to people and putting them at ease with what Ducky’s has to offer to make their special day formal.

Our goal is to provide useful, unbiased information the industry can use. We want to unify the formalwear industry, pull it together, and raise public awareness as to what we have to offer. Knowledge is power and the more we know about what works in other markets the better we can compete in our own. We would never ask you to give away the bank on what works for you, but a unified front put forth makes all of us look better in the consumers’ eyes! We look forward to hearing from you.